

Tips & Techniques » ISO Settings and Digital Noise
One question often asked is “How high can I set my camera's ISO without experiencing excessive digital noise in my images?”
The answer: “It depends."
Photographing dark-colored, poorly lit, or fast-moving subjects means you'll be favoring really fast shutter speeds. In the days of film cameras, that meant using your largest lens opening and highest shutter speed with a reasonably fast film (ISO 200 or 400) and, well, praying a bit. Of course, faster film meant larger film grain, but that was fine in order to get the shot. Strangely, what was fine in film days to those photographers stopped being 'fine' with the advent of digital cameras.
Until relatively recently, digital shooting in low light situations or with fast subjects required using your biggest lens opening and fastest shutter speed and praying a bit. Many older DSLRs were limited to ISOs in the 200 to 400 range before the level of noise in a picture became quite noticeable. (And, of course, every photographer has a different tolerance level for acceptable amounts of noise.) To compound matters, each individual digital camera has varying capabilities - even camera bodies of the same brand and model that were made in the same factory in the same week. That's because of small manufacturing variances from one body's sensor to another. Two sensors from the same manufacturer can create different amounts of digital noise at the same camera setting.
The latest DSLRs have amazing low-noise capabilities that were unheard of just one or two camera generations ago. My new Nikon D7000 can capture virtually noise-free pictures at ISO 3,600, where my old Nikon D100 would produce noise at any ISO over 200. In fact, I have taken quite acceptable streetlamp-lit night pictures with my D7000 at ISO 12,500. New Canon models offer similar capabilities.
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| Keep the lens cap on when you take your noise test exposures! |
Noise Tests
So, how do we find out if our camera's ISO settings will produce pictures with acceptably low amounts of noise? We conduct a series of simple and quick tests, ones I encourage you to do at home because it takes a fairly big computer display to see the results. You can't really see them on the small LCD screen on the back of your camera.
Step-by-step, here's how you do it:
That said, always remember one overriding truth: in the end, it's capturing the picture that counts, not how much noise is in it. I'd rather have a picture of an airborne snowboarder than not have one at all!
Bob Singer is a Cape Cod and Florida-based juried fine art photographer. He has been honored with hundreds of awards for his highly styled contemporary and beautiful traditional images which have appeared in national and local publications, in advertising, and hang as signed limited edition prints in galleries, homes and offices across the United States and Europe. A popular judge-commentator, instructor and speaker at photo conventions and camera clubs in New England and in Florida, Bob also gives seminars, leads workshops and teaches classes at the Cape Cod Art Association in Barnstable, MA and at the Venice Art Center in Venice, FL. He can be contacted at:bob@singercreative.com
3 Comments
I tried doing what the tutorial said about taking photos in manual or shutter priority with the lens cap on--however my Nikon D80 does not allow it to take a photo with the cap on. Is this normal?
Try setting it to manual focus. It's possible that you can't take a picture in auto focus until the focus is locked.
Right, Aaron. Just setting the camera to Manual (M) on the PSAM dial to M isn't enough to allow the shutter to release. You would also have to change the camera's focus setting to Manual to be in fully Manual mode. Just remember to set everything back to normal when you're done. Heck, even I've forgotten to do that! ;-)